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Restaurant
Reviews: Picco
All-Star
basketball player Shaquille O'Neal believes, "Excellence
is not a singular act, but a habit. You are what you repeatedly
do."
Applying this philosophy to the team at Larkspur's Picco, Chef
Bruce Hill's and Real Restaurants' latest venture I experienced
excellence on absolutely every level. On each visit, my experience
was perfect in every way, proving that excellence is a habit,
and not a singular act.
The menu
is seasonal, reflecting local, seasonal ingredients-from the winter
cauliflower, to the autumn figs, components are celebrated and
polished to bring out their best qualities.
The restaurant
itself is lovely, occupying the space that contained the local
coffee house Java Java, and more recently the raw foods of Roxanne.
These days, the rooms are cozier, more inviting, and friendlier,
without being cramped. The interior brick wall remains, and is
warmed up with contemporary photographs, comfortable banquettes
and high back chairs. The high, lofty ceiling and large windows
open up and enlarge the 85 seat room.
I like the
way the menu is divided-with straight forward categories: right
from the sea, meat, poultry, cheese, shell & fin fish, soup
& salads and vegetables. I've found the servers have terrific
suggestions not only about menu items, but about the order the
dishes should be served and wine pairings as well. In the autumn,
our dinner began with Melon Gazpacho Shooters ($1.75 each), a
smooth and vibrant puree of melon made savory. More recently we
began with a small cup of organic cauliflower and truffle soup
($2.25). Rich and earthy, the slightly coarse puree served as
a tabula rasa for the deep earthy truffle oil swirled on top,
ascending lowly and unappreciated cauliflower to a new height.
Ceviche is
always offered-in the fall with halibut ($9.75), currently with
Pacific sea bass. Super thin slices of glisteningly fresh fish
overlap each other on a square glass platter and are embellished
with finely chopped chilies, cilantro sprouts-the flavors are
pure and complement each other beautifully. The chilies are only
slightly piquant, but provide just enough spark to gently heat
the palate.
A truly elegant, sophisticated presentation elevates the currently
mundane Tuna Tartare ($12.95) to a new level. Ruby sequins of
Ahi are enhanced with Asian pears, peppery shiso leaves, sesame
oil and gently mounded on chewy rounds of sticky rice. The contrasting
textures and complementing flavors were what made this now common
and ordinary California menu staple into an exceptional dish.
As is the Tuna Tartare polished, so are the Mini Burgers ($9.95)
unassuming, yet tremendously popular. Three two-bite burgers are
covered with caramelized onion, sautéed mushrooms and a
touch of local blue cheese. The flavors are strong yet balanced,
and the bun hearty enough to support the components without taking
over.
Quail ($13.75) is delicious-a perfectly grilled little bird is
boned and butterflied and presented on a little hill of beets
that are dressed with a touch of olive oil, rich balsamic vinegar
and a few crisp shards of pancetta.
Vegetable
offerings are extensive. Torta of erbette chard ($8.50) has become
a kitchen mainstay. A classic Western European dish, Chef Hill's
interpretation includes ultra thin pastry that enrobes mild chard,
that is paired with ricotta, leeks, basil and a touch of Balsamic
vinegar.
Broccoli
and garlic are good together, and Picco's version renders them
excellent. In Broccoli de (sic) ciccio ($6.95) stir fries tender
broccoli shoots with toasted garlic, finely chopped chilies and
lemon zest.
The wine
list is extensive, with interesting selections from most of the
world's wine growing regions. The knowledgeable servers are eager
to offer appropriate suggestions. Because of the diversity of
the dishes, we opted for individual glasses rather than bottles.
Desserts
are probably the most unusual features at Picco. In the fall,
we enjoyed an extremely refreshing yet intensely flavored Lemon-Basil
Ice Cream ($7.75) An Apple Strudel($6.95) was warm and cozy, combining
apples, butter, plums, and vanilla ice cream into a sensational
presentation. More recently, we savored warm chocolate Madeleines
($2.25 each), paired with delicate and smooth Panna Cotta ($2.00
each). The excellence was in the perfect execution of these classic
desserts.
I appreciate
the fact that the seafood items on Picco's menu are on the Seafood
Watch for Healthy Oceans Best Choices or Good Alternatives list,
and that organic produce and local farmers are supported whenever
possible. Chef Hill's respect for our planet is indicative of
his respect for his staff, purveyors, and ultimately his clientele
as well.
The motto at Picco is "taste more-dare to share". I
too, prefer savoring a few delicious, perfect bites from several
interesting thoughtful dishes, than a massive piece of bland food-there's
no value to me in super-sizing. Therein lies the excellence-the
balance of flavors and textures, of sizeable portions, of helpful
servers, and of comfortable décor. Picco is innovative
without being bizarre, elegant without being stuffy and attentive
without being overbearing. This is a restaurant where excellence
is a habit.
Picco
320 Magnolia Avenue,
Larkspur
Open nightly
from 5pm to 10pm. Reservations and credit cards accepted. 415
924 0300.
www.restaurantpicco.com
From The Ark Newspaper
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